Friday, September 10, 2010 at 3:02PM
Andrea Dal Monte is either a genius, a madman, or both. At his unassuming osteria on Fifth and Berkeley, Dal Monte is creating pizzas that are entirely unique to New York City, a near-impossible feat in this day and age. The former Del Posto manager spent fifteen years working on his dough with a certified flour engineer (that exists), and the end result is nothing short of remarkable: authentic Roman-style pizza alla palla, square pies with a light, airy crust, crispy on the bottom and soft on top. His toppings are flown in from Italy: San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, cold-pressed olive oil.
A variety of pizzas are available by the slice during the afternoon; the Peperoni e Caprino (roasted peppers, sweet onions, olives, and goat cheese) and the Affumicata (potato, smoked scamorza, onions, and speck) were well-balanced and perfectly messy. Both are pictured above.
Dal Monte is almost always there, greeting patrons and helping them through the menu, which changes seasonally but always includes a selection of cured meats and cheeses as well as sfizi, little snacks like a killer eggplant caponata. The space is as light and airy as the pizzas, and the wait staff is charming and helpful.
Campo de' Fiori, 187 5th Ave (at Berkeley Pl) Brooklyn NY 11217. 347-763-0933